Colombia might be the only Latin American country where rice is more important than corn. But Colombians have a special place in their heart for the cornmeal cakes they call arepas. If you've never had the pleasure, imagine corn bread with a more delicate crumb that's been flattened into a pancake, filled with cheese or egg, and griddled or fried to form a brown, crispy crust. Each bite sends butter streaking down your chin and, for Colombians, inspires memories of abuela at the stove. For the best, fly down to Cartegena and seek out the Restaurante Club De Pesca in the Manga neighborhood. But you won't find them on the menu there—it's one of the fanciest places in town. Instead, head to the nearby soccer field, where a gaggle of ladies sell carimaƱolas (yuca fritters filled with ground beef), empanadas, and most importantly, those fabulous arepas.

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