Jerk has changed quite a bit since its invention in the 17th century by
the escaped slaves known as Maroons. These freedom fighters (and early
gourmets) subsisted on wild boar while they were fighting the British,
and to preserve the meat they rubbed it with a mixture of spices. Today,
the aromatic blend has developed to include allspice, nutmeg, thyme,
and Scotch bonnet chiles. But you see chicken more often than pork, and
grills made from oil drums instead of traditional wood fires. That's why
anyone visiting the North Coast resort town of Ocho Rios should take
the quick 12-mile trip to the valley of Faith's Pen
(about 12 miles south on Highway A3, just past the little town of St.
Faith). Dozens of roadside stalls here serve perfect renditions of jerk
pork loin (and chicken, if you insist). Smoke from the pimento wood
intensifies the already-energetic spices and creates a tasty crust
surrounding the juicy flesh. And you thought you'd find heaven on
Jamaica's beaches!
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